Barely anything is as distinctive as Cantonese opera. This theatre genre, with its colourful makeup, over-the-top costumes and piercing singing, has kept its original form for thousands of years. In a city known for its modernism, where rickshaws have been replaced with Mercedes and buildings from the past are razed for new ones, Cantonese opera is bona-fide old school.

It is generally agreed that Cantonese opera got its start around the 13th century in Guangdong. Before formal education was widespread in China, the opera was one of the main venues for educating the public, but there was one drawback: as a public service, the opera was scrutinized by the emperor, who allowed only positive messages about himself and the empire to be included. After the Mongol armies invaded, many Song artists fled to Cantonese-speaking Guangdong, bringing with them popular operas whose stories are still being told today.

Cantonese opera plots are based around Chinese history, myths and culture, but the performance itself has to do with much more than heritage. On a basic level, it involves four skills that must be mastered using five methods. The four skills of the opera are singing; acting and movement, including dance; delivery of speech; and physical activity, such as martial arts and gymnastics. All of these are achieved by five methods that correspond to different body parts: hands, feet, eyes, body and hair. For instance, female characters must master a difficult way of walking, using short, rapid steps and lifting the body to make it seem as if it is detached from the feet.

All of this comes together in two types of plays - martial arts-based mou performances that emphasize war and action sequences, and the cultural man plays that incorporate poetry, symbolism and elegance. Until the 20th century, males played all female roles, but this is no longer the case. Each character wears costumes and makeup that denote their personality and the theme of the opera. Elaborate costumes are painstakingly created and follow age-old patterns. One recognizable costume feature are the water sleeves that women wear in man operas which create gentler movements for displaying emotions.

Much of Cantonese opera has to do with stage presence, and applying each character's makeup can take hours. The most common Cantonese opera look is the "white and red face" that indicates courage and virtue. In order to achieve the look, characters tape their faces for temporary facelifts, paint their faces entirely white, add in red accents and draw their eyebrows and eyes at sharp, upward angles. Women's hair is pulled tightly back and pen jee, which are like bangs, are added for a finishing touch. The characters' hair, dress and makeup are so standard that you can recognize characters from one play to the next, and even on television.

These days, Cantonese opera is often seen as a relic from the past. In Hong Kong, the Sunbeam Theatre in North Point may be the only remaining theatre devoted solely to Cantonese opera. To appeal to wider audiences, a number of performing arts companies have created new takes on classic Cantonese opera stories and choreography. Does this mean traditional Cantonese opera is a dying art? It is hard to say, but judging from its perseverance through time, from the days the artists escaped the warring Mongols, Cantonese opera won't go out without a fight.

Visitor's Tip

The permanent collection at the Hong Kong Heritage Museum includes more than 20,000 Cantonese opera items. See page 65 for contact information.

Cantonese opera performances

Experience authentic Cantonese opera, even if it is an acquired taste. All tickets for February's performances are available from Urbtix at 2734 9009.

Feb 2 - Kwai Tsing Theatre Auditorium, 7.15pm, $50-$100. Tel: 9341 3082

Feb 2 - Tuen Mun Town Hall, 7.15pm, $50-$100. Tel: 9341 3093

Feb 10-11 - HK City Hall Concert Hall, 7.30pm and 3pm, $80-$180. Tel: 2209 6280

Feb 14-16 - Kwai Tsing Theatre Auditorium, 7.30pm, $60-$1,000. Tel: 2880 9362

Feb 16 - Tuen Mun Town Hall, 3.15pm, $20. Tel: 9474 0632

Feb 17-19 - Kwai Tsin Theatre Auditorium, 7.30pm, $60-$1,000. Tel: 2880 9362

Feb 28 - Yuen Long Theatre Auditorium, 7.15pm, $50-$130. Tel: 9341 3082

Feb 29 - HK City Hall Concert Hall, 7.15pm, $20-$120. Tel: 9022 7497