Cheung Chau is one of hundreds of islands surrounding Hong Kong. Only a few miles away by ferry, this island is light years away from the modern skyscrapers and business districts of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. The Cantonese translation of Cheung Chau is "long island". There are about 25,000 residents but no cars except for some government vehicles and it is covered with bicycles, the preferred form of transport. The little island's quaint but busy waterfront is dotted with food stalls and little shops selling fresh fish, meat, fruit and vegetables. Fishing is the main industry and many families live on boats at the pier despite owning property on the island.

Culture club

The annual Bun Festival has become a major tourist attraction and really highlights how Chinese culture and beliefs are still alive today. Thousands of visitors flock to this normally quiet island for the week-long festival. The origins of the festival can be traced back to the 18th century when the island was said to have been hit by a terrible plague and attacked by pirates, leaving many lost souls to roam the island. A statue of Pak Tai, the Taoist God of the Sea, who is said to keep evil spirits at bay, is paraded through the streets to maintain the island's fortunes and locals dressed up as deities walk around the island to drive out any evil spirits.

The festival take place early in the fourth month of the Lunar calendar and lasts for about a week. The highlight of the festival falls on the eighth day, which this year falls on May 12, when the bun antics take place.

During the first three days, the islanders are supposed to refrain from eating meat, and no meat is sold in restaurants. However in recent years it has been reported that some restaurants have begun to sell meat and fish as the festival is a perfect opportunity to capitalise on the many tourists visiting the island.

Day for the kids

The festival is an especially exciting day for the children of the island who dress up as characters from Chinese history, folklore and local politics and take part in a procession. Thousands of tourists line the procession route and it is considered a great honour for a family if their child is in the parade. Led by an enormous image of Pak Tai, the children parade through the village in pairs. One child sits down holding a pole on which a small concealed seat provides support for the other, who appears to be flying. A pair of shoes attached to the bottom of the costume gives the impression that the child is suspended in the air. During the festival, performances of Chinese operas, lion dances and religious services also take place on the island.

Buns away

The event that most of the tourists come to see is the climbing of the bun towers. Historically, young men would race up the towers to collect the buns, each of which was stamped with the crimson characters of their district of origin, and distribute them to the waiting crowds below. However, following the collapse of a tower in 1978 injuring over one hundred people, it was deemed too dangerous and the whole ritual was abandoned for years. The festival was not originally intended to promote tourism but the government has since recognised it as a great way to put the little island on the map. In 2005 the government permitted the revival of this tradition. Nowadays the bun race takes place under the supervision of the Leisure and Cultural Service Department to assure that safety standards are in place. A single tower that meets modern safety standards for climbing is erected in a sports ground while the original bamboo towers are still constructed outside Pak Tai Temple. The traditional three bun towers still have their buns removed from the towers at midnight.

Some tour companies organise day trips to the festival which include a pick-up by boat from Kowloon or Central, a typical vegetarian lunch, seats at the parade and viewing of the bun towers before taking you back to Hong Kong. This year the Bun Festival coincides with Buddha's Birthday, where celebrations centre round the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island, home to the world's largest seated, outdoor, bronze Buddha.

For further information on details of events or tours, contact the Hong Kong Tourism Board on 2508 1234, or visit www.discoverhongkong.com