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THE VISITOR'S GUIDE TO HONG KONG 香港旅游指南
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Sunny Stanley

Zoe Chan spends a day outdoors in cheery Stanley Village.

Murray House   Photo: Hank T

With its beaches, promenades, open-air market and historical sites, Stanley is a permanent fixture on the “must-do” list of outdoor activities in Hong Kong. In June, the village really comes alive when it hosts the exhilarating annual Dragon Boat Championships on the 16th. Locals, visitors, corporate sponsors, and expats all come together to watch these exciting traditional races. (Read more about the races on www.dragonboat.org.hk). Between shopping, dining, and lazing on the beach, there’s enough to do in Stanley to fill an entire summer’s day, whether or not the races are on.

Encompassing a peninsula on the south side of Hong Kong Island, Stanley got its start as a small fishing community. Over time, it grew so much that when the British took control of Hong Kong in 1841, the village was the largest settlement on the island with 2,000 local inhabitants. As a result, the British set up their first centre of operations there and named the area after Lord Stanley, the British secretary of state for war and the colonies during the 19th century. Even after their headquarters was moved to what is now Central, the British army remained at Fort Stanley until Hong Kong was returned to China in 1997. Still today, Stanley retains a British influence, and many say it is similar to a quaint English seaside town. For instance, it’s not uncommon to see groups of English tourists dining outdoors on fish and chips and drinking jugs of beer with the colonial Murray House in the background.

The best way to get to Stanley is by bus. Of all the routes that can take you there, perhaps the most thrilling is bus number 6 from Exchange Square in Central (MTR Hong Kong Station Exit D). Rather than taking highways or tunnels, the route is incredibly picturesque, climbing up and over Hong Kong Island and wrapping around the scenic shores of the south side all the way to Stanley peninsula. Be sure to snag an upstairs window seat and have your camera ready. Other bus routes to Stanley from Exchange Square in Central include 6A (Monday-Saturday at peak times only), 6X, 66 and 260. Alternatively, you can take green minibus 40 from Tang Lung Street, a short walk from MTR Causeway Bay Station Exit B, or Bus 973 from Canton Road in Tsim Sha Tsui outside the Silvercord Centre.

Stanley Main Beach   Photo: Chong Fat Stanley Market   Photo: Enoch Lau

Begin your visit with a stroll around the indoor-outdoor maze of Stanley Market, which takes up Market New Street and Stanley Market Road. Almost everything under the sun is for sale here, with shops and stalls squeezed into anywhere with enough space. With all the goods on offer, it’s no wonder that the market is open seven days a week. Keep your eyes peeled for freshwater pearls, porcelain, silk garments, Chinese “peasant” art and other oriental bric-à-brac, luggage and toys, all of which are Stanley Market highlights. With a little searching, great deals on nice quality goods can be had.

Just a short, leisurely walk from Stanley Market is Stanley Main Street, a waterfront promenade lined with al fresco restaurants and pubs. Many types of cuisine are available here, from American and French to Thai and Chinese. When the weather is good, there’s always a jovial atmosphere from one eatery to the next, and it’s a fun place to grab a pick-me-up before carrying on to the other sights in Stanley.

Past all the restaurants and bars on Stanley Main Street lies Murray House, which has one of the most interesting stories in modern Hong Kong architectural history. This three-storey columned building was originally built in Central in 1846, where it stood strong until 1982, when it was decided that the Bank of China tower should be constructed on the same spot. Since Murray House was (and still is) one of the oldest surviving public buildings in Hong Kong, officials decided to disassemble it, move it to Stanley, and reassemble it in its original condition. The only problem was that during the reconstruction, some pieces of the building went missing. When they finally turned up in a warehouse in Tai Tam, the numbers on the misplaced blocks and pillars had faded away due to moisture in the air. The builders were left guessing as to where they should go, because somehow they had already reassembled most of the building without them. Construction was finally completed in 2001, with six extra columns standing apart from their old home. The remaining columns are now situated next to Murray House, along the waterfront promenade. Murray House is now home to a number of restaurants and the Hong Kong Maritime Museum (open Tuesday to Sunday and public holidays from 10am to 6pm; closed Mondays; admission $20 adults, $10 concessions; tel: 2813 2322).

Stanley Market   Photo: HKTB Aerial view of Stanley peninsula   Photo: Joachim Schmalte

After trying to guess where the extra columns at Murray House might go, take your pick from Stanley’s two pleasant beaches: Stanley Main Beach on the east side of the peninsula and St. Stephen’s Beach on the west side. The two are very similar most of the year, except during the dragon boat races, which take place at Stanley Main Beach. Both have netted swimming areas, barbecue pits, manicured shores, bathroom facilities, and water sports gear, such as small sailboats, windsurfing boards, kayaks and canoes for hire. For enquiries on water sports, call the Stanley Main Beach Water Sports Centre (closed on Mondays) on 2813 9117 or the St. Stephen's Beach Water Sports Centre (closed on Tuesdays) on 2813 5407. And if you forgot to bring a towel, you can easily pick one up at the market.

End the day at a restaurant or pub back on Stanley Main Street, sun-kissed and with shopping bags in hand.

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