When visiting a city, especially one as
active as Hong Kong, it is easy to become overwhelmed.
But travelling doesn't have to be non-stop tours and trips. Sometimes
the perfect day is found through exploring a neighbourhood to see
what makes the city tick.
Experiencing SoHo, or the area South of (up the hill from) Hollywood Road,
gives visitors a glimpse of the contrasts that are alive and
thriving in the city. Loosely made up of Shelley Street, Elgin Street, Peel Street,
Staunton Street and Old Bailey Street, the district is a happening
place with constant changes, cultural reinventions and preservations, similar
to its counterparts in London and New York. For tourists,
SoHo provides meeting places with sure bets for entertainment, while
for residents SoHo is a lifestyle.
     
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History Walk |
The SoHo district has a rich history that is often overlooked due
to its more modern buildings. A number of declared monuments in
Hong Kong have their home in SoHo. These include the former Central Police Station
Compound and the former Victoria Prison Compound. Both were built in the mid-1800s
after Hong Kong became a British colony. They are no longer in use, simply standing
as remembrances of the past.
Another historical element of SoHo is its relationship with Dr Sun Yat-sen, the Chinese revolutionary who was instrumental in
overthrowing the Qing Dynasty and setting up the Republic of China. Considered one of the
greatest leaders of modern China, Sun was educated in Hong Kong and formulated many of
his revolutionary plans here with local groups. There is both a Dr Sun Yat-sen Museum and
an Historical Trail that hits many points in SoHo. Use your imagination, as many of the original
locations have been razed to make way for newer buildings.
Where to go
The Dr Sun Yat-sen Museum is accessible from the Central-Midlevels
escalators, exit at Caine Road. You can also begin the Dr Sun Yat-sen Historical
Trail from the museum. Follow the marked signs, or call the Central and Western District
Council at 2852 3464 for the guided tour service of the
Historical Trail. |
Gallery Shopping |
Hollywood Road forms the northern boundary of SoHo, but
stretches out further through the Central and Western districts. Built
under colonial rule, sailors and foreign merchants returning home
sold the collectibles gathered during their travels along the road.
Today, Hollywood Road is a hub for art galleries and antiques, selling
everything from impressive modern art to antique Buddha sculptures
and prints of maps. The arts district extends into SoHo, where
exploring can bring you to both funky and conventional galleries.
Where to go
Begin on Hollywood Road exploring both east and west of the
escalators. Move up the hill into the heart of SoHo to find more
galleries and antiques. See the gallery listings on page 55 and
antique listings on page 58 for more information. |
People Watching |
SoHo is a neighbourhood centred on people
moving about, so it is no wonder that it's a great spot
for people watching. The area became a booming
location when the Central-Midlevels escalator system
was completed in 1993 as the urban planning
solution to traffic congestion. The escalators now
connect Midlevels residents to the Central business
areas through a vertical climb of 135 feet. But they
have done more than provide a means of pedestrian
transport: they also created an urban corridor that shaped the composition of
Hong Kong Island and created SoHo.
With ease of movement, SoHo became an accessible area. All along the
escalators trendy areas with galleries, restaurants, and shops popped up due
to a continuing rapid gentrification. Swanky areas sit alongside other longestablished,
and perhaps more fascinating, aspects of the city like wet markets
and umbrella-shaded street eateries. All walks of life mix in the neighbourhood,
with a number of people-watching spots to please the innocent
voyeur in us all.
Where to go
Head to the Graham Street wet market to witness Hong Kong's wet market culture.
Live fish, hanging meat, blossoming flowers, fresh vegetables and a few surprises
are all on sale. Go early in the day when the locals hit the market to purchase
their daily items.Afterwards, cool down at the Peak Cafe Bar on Shelley
Street, the best people watching spot on the escalators, and try one of their
refreshing summer fruit concoctions. Then grab a seat by the window for a long
dinner at a restaurant like Bizou along one of
SoHo's streets. End the night with dessert at
Chocolux. |
Boutique Shopping |
While other shopping areas
in Hong Kong are known for their
brand names and massive stores,
SoHo is notable for its high-quality
boutiques and personality.
These small shops do not focus on
quantity, but instead on offering
visitors distinctive fashions and
finds that will set them apart from
the crowds.
Some charming shops along Staunton Street,
Hollywood Road, Elgin Street and Peel Street offer locally
made goods including birdcages, Chinese lanterns and
bright red old-school alarm clocks.
Where to go
For clothing by a local designer, duck into SPY Henry Lau. Tiare
Boutique, Indigo and La Boutique (14E Elgin Street; Tel: 2546
6867) offer the kind of specialist fashions only found in big city
boutiques, a sign of Hong Kong's internationallism.
If you'd like to pick up some great East-meets-West goods, do
not miss Lalang or G.O.D., standing for Goods of Desire, a
clothing and decor store with choices ranging from chopsticks
and Chinese picture frames to good fortune wine corks and
wooden soap dishes. |
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A.
Dr Sun Yat-sen Museum,
7 Castle Road |
 |
B.
Former Central Police Station Compound,
10 Hollywood Road |
 |
C.
Former Victoria Prison Compound,
Old Bailey Street |
 |
D.
Graham Street Wet Market |
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E.
Peak Cafe Bar,
9-13 Shelley Street. |
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F.
Bizou,
G/F, 48 Elgin Street |
 |
G.
SPY Henry Lau,
21 Staunton Street |
 |
H.
Tiare Boutique,
53 Staunton Street |
 |
I.
Indigo, 32A Staunton Street |
 |
J.
Chocolux,
57 Peel Street |
 |
K.
Lalang,
40 Staunton Street |
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L.
G.O.D.
48 Hollywood Road |
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SoHo Secrets
SoHo has many hidden spots that you will only find with a keen
eye or a sneaking suspicion. Don't hesitate to look down well-lit
alleys and side streets. One hush-hush find is Feather Boa on
Staunton Street, an old antique store turned bar with no sign, hidden
by a curtained entrance. As it's a secret, you'll have to find it
yourself, so let the exploring begin!
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Visitor's Tips
- If you're feeling the heat, pop into SoHo's restaurants, stores
and galleries to cool down and look around.
- The Central-Midlevels escalators travel straight through
SoHo one direction at a time: downhill from 6am to
10am and uphill from 10.20am to midnight.
- Be sure to drink lots of water when walking outdoors in the heat.
- If you forget a map, the area is well marked with bilingual signs for tourists.
- Closest MTR: Central (exit D1)
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