If you have visited Hong Kong’s busiest area, Mongkok – which has been recorded by the Guinness Book of World Records as the most crowded place in the world with an average of 130,000 people per square kilometre - it is hard to imagine that somewhere in Hong Kong, not far from the bright lights of the big city, there is a place such as Lamma Island. Quiet and filled with natural beauty, its waters hypnotically lapping the sandy shores, Lamma is like a different world.

Lamma Island is not one of Hong Kong’s many tiny, remote, uninhabited islands. It is actually the third largest island in Hong Kong (after Lantau and Hong Kong Island), and it lies only about half an hour from Central by ferry. Although relatively large in area, the island is inhabited by just 6,000 residents. There are no automobiles save for a number of emergency vehicles and motorised carts, and no buildings are taller than three storeys high. The island is a vision of old-time Hong Kong, with its rolling hills and fishing boats clustered along the shores. Up on the hills is a cascade of simple homes facing the sea. With such serenity and beauty, it is easy to see why the island’s residents would want to call it home. For the rest of Hong Kong, the island is a popular weekend getaway destination.

Island Living

Residents of Lamma Island have a reputation for being hippies, although this description is a bit of an exaggeration. One island dweller known as Lamma-Gung (meaning “Lamma old man” in Chinese), who is possibly the island’s most fervent supporter, calls the hippie label “an ancient, outdated and wholly inappropriate cliché.” Although there are almost no genuine hippies to be found, he emphasises the down-to-earth community that enjoys the unusual experience of living on an island that is free of noisy cars, skyscrapers and Hong Kong’s infamously poor air quality. Not quite hippies then, but the people of Lamma are indeed living alternative lifestyles compared to their urban counterparts.

To some, the thought of living on an island only accessible by boat might seem terribly inconvenient. It is true that there are no supermarkets, malls or cinemas on Lamma, but on the other hand, residents have a peaceful environment while still enjoying the major modern luxuries of air conditioning, wi-fi, mobile connections and clean drinking water. As Lamma-Gung says, “the benefits far outweigh the disadvantages.”

Lamma-Gung explains that because of the restricted building height, most residents have a garden either at ground-level or on the rooftop, which provides ample space for enjoying the natural surroundings, having parties or just relaxing with a book. But for him, the close-knit community is the best part of island living. He says that it is “very unusual in Hong Kong to have a neighbourhood community where people know each other, care for each other and help out if needed.”

The Great Outdoors

When you think of touring Hong Kong, the first thoughts to come to mind might be shopping and eating. But for those visitors who are looking for something different – a good hike, perhaps – the “Family Trail” that runs between the island’s two main villages is a good choice. Most of the island’s residents live in the village of Yung Shue Wan on the north end, which has a number of small shops and quaint restaurants on Main Street. A bit of a hike away is another small community in Sok Kwu Wan. The hike provides an opportunity to see both communities while taking in the natural beauty along the way, and it takes only a little over an hour. But as you have probably already noticed, Hong Kong summers are swelteringly hot, so be prepared with lots of water, sunscreen and a hat.

After a good trek, it’s time for a dip at one of the island’s beaches. At weekends, the beaches are visited by a good number of city dwellers in need of a little rest and relaxation, but on weekdays, the sands are largely empty. Popular beaches include Hung Shing Yeh and Lo So Shing, which have facilities as well as restaurants and bars for a relaxing beachside meal (although there is a large power station located in full view of Hung Shing Yeh). You could also explore one of the more secluded beaches, such as Tung O Wan, for a slice of private paradise.

With no cars or buses to speak of, bicycles are the transportation of choice for residents. Visitors can rent bicycles at Hoi Nam Gift & Bicycle Shop (37 Sha Po Old Village, Yung Shue Wan).

Where to Eat

While there is a large variety of cuisines available on Lamma Island, many people ferry over to savour the fresh seafood. You can't miss these restaurants, as the live fish and shellfish are displayed in tanks along the streets. The touristy Rainbow Seafood Restaurant (23–25 First St, Sok Kwu Wan) is the island’s largest, and it provides a free ferry service to and from Central and Tsim Sha Tsui. Another popular restaurant is Lamcombe Seafood Restaurant (47 Main St, Yung Shue Wan).

Once you’ve had your fill of seafood, try a tofu pudding, a favourite Hong Kong dessert, which is sold at the popular Kin Hing Tofu Dessert (Back Street, Yung Shue Wan). Other eateries recommended by Lamma-Gung are Deli Lamma (36 Main St, Yung Shue Wan) and the Waterfront Bar & Restaurant (58 Main St, Yung Shue Wan).

Getting There

Ready to experience a different side of Hong Kong? Getting to Lamma Island is easy. Catch the ferry from Pier 4 at Central's ferry terminal to one of the island’s two main villages. Ferries depart for Yung Shue Wan pier every twenty minutes to an hour, and for Sok Kwu Wan pier less frequently. There are “fast” and “ordinary” ferries with varying rates. For ferry schedules and fares, check www.hkkf.com.hk or call 2815 6063