Life is different in the quaint fishing village of Tai O, located on the far north-western tip of Lantau Island. The village may technically be part of fast-paced, skyscraper-laden Hong Kong, but it’s genuinely another world. The heart of Tai O is concentrated along the banks of a river, connected by only a narrow footbridge. Most homes are built on stilts along the scenic waterfront, giving the village the nickname “Venice of the East”. You won’t find Italian art works or gondolas here, but you will find a place where time seems to have stood still. A real community exists in Tai O - everyone knows each other’s names, the main form of transportation is the bicycle, and seafood is not only a favourite dish but also a major source of income.

These days, Tai O may seem off the beaten path, but in the past it was one of the biggest ports in South East Asia. People’s lives and the town’s trade revolved around the sea, salt and fish. The community flourished, growing to approximately 50,000 residents. However, times changed. Due to overfishing and the closing of the salt quarry, many residents were forced to leave the fishing village to find work elsewhere. Today the population is estimated to be just 3,000.

Nevertheless, Tai O remains a paradise for visitors because of its unique culture, heritage and scenery. It is easy to spend a day (or more) exploring what this exceptional village has to offer. Here is what we recommend.

Touring Tai O

The best way to get the lay of the land is to join a 20-minute sampan tour, which costs approximately $20. There is no need to plan the tour in advance; operators have set up shop right next to the bus terminus. The journey begins with an up close and personal ride along the river through the stilted city where daily life goes on; on balconies, women water flowers, men tend to their bonsai trees, children fish, and the townspeople’s boats are stored safely away on the tidal flats below their homes.

At the point where the river opens into the South China Sea, the stately Yeung Hau Temple overlooks the water. This slice of the sea is home to the infamous Chinese white dolphins, which are actually pink. On any given day, lucky visitors can spot them from the boats. The dolphins are magnificent creatures and their lush pink colour is almost unbelievable. (In order to protect the dolphins’ safety, visitors should only observe them from a distance.)

After seeing the dolphins, the sampans circle around the uninhabited north and west sides of Tai O, where steep, green and rocky cliffs meet the sea below, and dock back in the town. Once on land, visitors can meander through the narrow village streets, browsing the shops and stalls of the market. Not surprisingly, Tai O Market is dominated by all varieties of fish, from fresh to dried or salty, but it is also a good place to pick up bamboo hats and fans to shield off the late summer heat.

Local restaurants are a good stop for lunch to sample some local fare (most of which involves shrimp sauce or shrimp paste), and to enjoy a cool drink (purple passion tea is a local speciality) before heading to Kwan Tai Temple. Situated on the western bank of the village, this temple was built during the reign of Hong Zhi (1488–1505 AD) in honour of Kwan Tai, the God of War and Righteousness. Every colourful detail of the temple commands attention, and even villagers say they spot something new each time they look at it.

The afternoon is an ideal time to stroll along the south side of Tai O. Here, the village on stilts spreads out along the seafront above mangroves. If you look inside, you will see everything from a man expertly crafting his pastries in the back of his shop, a storage building housing long dragon boats stacked high to students practising at the Shaolin Kung Fu School and Cultural Centre. The path comes to an end just after one of the sights that Tai O is best known for, the shrimp paste producers. Shrimp paste, made from fermented ground shrimp, is a common cooking ingredient in southern Chinese cuisine. In Tai O, the makers grind down shrimp to ferment in large tubs. The smell is instantly recognisable. When the weather is right, the paste is spread on to bamboo trays to dry under the sun, and then packaged for sale on the spot.

As the sun sets, most visitors head to the centre of town to board a bus or ferry back to the city. The return journey seems like a time for reflection; Tai O is a one of a kind experience that will make any visitor think of Hong Kong, and maybe even their own pace of life, a little differently.

How to Get There

Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then bus 1 to Tai O. Alternatively, take the MTR to Tung Chung Station, then bus 11 from Tung Chung Town Centre. There is also a ferry from Tung Chung New Development Pier to Tai O.

Where to Stay

Until recently, there was no official hotel in Tai O but last year, Veronica Chan, whose family is from Tai O, opened Espace Elastique, the first B&B in town. It’s a funky contrast to the rest of the village. 57 Kat Hong Street. Tel: 2985 7002. www.espaceelastique.com.hk