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THE VISITOR'S GUIDE TO HONG KONG 香港旅游指南
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All the tea in China

Lauren Weirick examines the art of Chinese tea in Hong Kong.

 

Tea is an indispensable part of Hong Kong culture. Seeped in history, it is the unofficial drink of Hong Kong. Tea is a staple beverage, served at every local restaurant and in every home. It is considered a therapeutic drink with health-giving values, believed to help digestion, lethargy and overall well-being.
The widespread use of tea in Hong Kong shouldn't be surprising, as tealeaves have been cultivated for thousands of years in China. In fact, China has one of the earliest records of tea drinking, dating back to the 1st millennium BC. A popular Chinese legend tells that the custom of drinking tea originated when a few leaves blew into an emperor's bowl of boiling water, but the popularity of tea began for strictly medicinal purposes. The pervasiveness of tea grew, and it soon became the preferred drink not only of emperors but of every household.

Lock Cha Tea Shop Teapots at the Lock Cha Tea Shop Rose Red tea at the Sky Lounge, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel and Towers

Today China produces around a quarter of the world's tea, roughly equivalent to India's production. There are more than 7,000 varieties of tea alone, but they can be divided into three main types: green tea, black tea and oolong tea. Surprisingly, all types of tea come from the same plant. What differentiates each kind is how the tealeaves are processed after they are picked. Most of this has to do with oxidation, also known as fermentation, which refers to the length of time the leaves are exposed to air.

The basic rule for tea is the longer the oxidation, the stronger the flavour. Green tea is the most natural of all tea types because its leaves are allowed to only slightly wither before they are rapidly heated to stop the oxidation process. Therefore, green teas have less caffeine, can be brewed at lower temperatures and are known for their subtle flavours. Black tea is allowed to wither and absorb oxygen from the air until it is fully oxidized. As a result, black teas have robust flavours and a high amount of caffeine. They are also dark in colour and are brewed at higher temperatures. The third kind of tea, oolong, is semi-oxidized. Both the caffeine content and flavour of oolong teas are between that of green and black teas, but oolong teas are often fragrant in taste and aroma and are compared to fresh flowers or fruits.

Two other special classes of Chinese tea are white tea and puerh. Similar to green tea, white tea is unfermented and has low levels of caffeine. It is the most delicate of all teas, produced using the youngest leaves on the tea plant. White tea is also the most expensive of all teas and is considered a delicacy. Adding to its mysteriousness, China only began exporting white tea to the west during the 19th century. Another coveted Chinese tea is puerh tea, an aged black tea that is compressed into blocks. Known for its medicinal properties and earthy flavour, puerh tea can be stored for years and supposedly improves with age. It was illegal to import into the US until 1995 and its production process is still a tightly kept secret in China.

Never a city to follow the pack, Hong Kong has its own form of tea culture. As well as being offered to guests, Chinese tea is also enjoyed outside the home. Hong Kong even has its own form of tea, known as milk tea, which is a blend of English and Chinese customs, much like Hong Kong itself. A must-do for tourists and a quintessentially Hong Kong experience is yum cha, which literally meaning "drinking tea". Yum cha is the traditional practice of dining on delectable dim sum and unlimited refills of tea in the morning or early afternoon.

Real tea aficionados should partake in a tea tasting ceremony. Nakata Yuki of the Lock Cha Tea Shop believes strongly in the art of tea. "Yum cha and the art of tea are two different things... Yum cha has been popular in Hong Kong for a long time, but the art of Chinese tea has become more and more popular in the last 30 years," she says. All visitors to the teashop are offered a welcome tea and a tea tasting, much akin to a wine tasting. Yuki teaches each visitor how to hold a teacup correctly, "Hold the edge of the cup with your thumb and middle finger and place your forefinger tight with the middle finger to avoid people seeing you drink. Your ring finger supports the bottom of the cup. Smell the tea before you drink. Try a little sip first and finish the whole cup of tea in three sips." This particular process ensures that you get the most out of your tea. 


Almost every kind of tea is available in Hong Kong, but all teas are not equal. According to Yuki, "Normally, people like jasmine", but her tea shop carries a special 'Rock Tea' that she keeps on hand "for those that really understand and love tea". This tea is cultivated from the abundant tea producing plantations on Wuyi Mountain and has seven to eight tastes in one little sip. Visitors can find tea souvenirs and different teas to bring home at one of the city's many teashops. The Lock Cha Tea Shop (tel: 2805 1360) sells gift packs and tea sets and has two branches: off Ladder Street at 290B Queen's Road Central in Sheung Wan, and at the K S Lo Gallery in Hong Kong Park. Ask your concierge for more suggestions.


If you would like to learn more about tea during your visit to Hong Kong, browse the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware to learn about tea ware and see its collection of Yixing teapots. The museum also offers regular demonstrations and tea gatherings. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Admiralty.    Tel: 2869 0690

Tea Etiquette

JW Marriott

• If someone fills your teacup, gently tap the table next to your cup with your middle three fingers as a gesture of thanks.

• Chinese tea is never taken with sugar or milk.

• Serve your elders, guests and superiors first.

• When the teapot is empty, rest its lid on the top of the pot handle to signify that you would like more.



Tea Time

Photo: Shu Zhai

•  Enjoy an elegant colonial high tea in the infamous Peninsula Hotel lobby. Afternoon tea: 2pm-7pm. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: 2920 2888

• Try a traditional yum cha, at the Luk Yu Tea House, one of Hong Kong's last remaining traditional teahouses. 24-26 Stanley Street, Central. Tel: 2523 5464

• Take part in a time-honoured tea ceremony surrounded by panoramic views of Victoria Harbour at the Sky Lounge, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel and Towers, 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: 2369 1111

•  Choose from an entire wall of teas at the Canton Tea Company in The Lounge. Lobby, JW Marriott, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty. Tel: 2841 3846

 

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