Amid swirling smoke and the distinctive scent of worship, an attendant clears out an overly crowded row of lighted incense sticks with one sweep of his arm – a gesture repeated frequently, as the sticks accumulate quickly at the altar. It is proof that the faithful have come in droves for prayers and answers to Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple, the shrine with a reputation for accurate predictions and answered prayers.

The temple has been at its current location since the 1920s, its ornate structures historic as well as sacred. Every Chinese New Year, thousands rush in at the stroke of midnight to offer incense to the gods for a prosperous year. Other religious holidays also see a surge in temple attendance, though even on an average Saturday, Wong Tai Sin is teeming with worshippers. But for outsiders, the experience can be mystifying. At least that's how it felt to me as I navigated the complex for the first time with a similarly inexpert co-worker.

There is a Chinese saying that goes, “say a greeting when entering someone’s home; bow to the gods when entering a temple” – which would explain the stalls selling incense outside the entrance. I realised too late that it might not be the best etiquette to go in empty-handed. Every temple-goer enters armed with these props essential for honouring the gods, and the first thing they do is light their incense from the small flames that burn steadily inside glass boxes near the entrance. They then stand in front of the altar, facing the first ornate worship hall, and hold up the incense with their eyes closed. After making a few bows, silently saying thanks or prayers, they leave three sticks of incense in the altar’s pot.

Wong Tai Sin is a sprawling complex of several elaborately decorated worship halls, each one dedicated to a different god. There are five altars spread across the entire area, and visitors usually do a comprehensive walk-through, bowing in front of each hall with their bundles of incense before poking three sticks into the altar pots. Posted signs and attendants will remind you to hold the incense up high as you walk from hall to hall to avoid jabbing others with the smouldering tips.

The main altar is currently boarded up for refurbishment but there is still plenty to see, such as the brightly coloured pavilions, carved rock walls and a serene Chinese-style garden with lotus ponds inhabited by carp and turtles. Surprisingly, visitors are sparse in the garden – a refreshing contrast to the smoky commotion in the rest of the grounds. Its entrance has a sign asking for a $2 contribution, just one of many donation boxes stationed in various corners of Wong Tai Sin. What happens to all the money? Nearby display boards tout the temple’s dedication to community service, including medical services, caring for the elderly and operating schools.

Another board speaks of environmental concerns associated with incense. Visitors are asked to cut back on its use and to leave only three sticks at each altar. The text reasons, “If the heart is sincere, the gods will hear. The size and number of joss sticks are unimportant.” Instead of feeling a need to burn all the incense at hand, visitors can leave unused sticks at a collection area free for others to use – good news for the air quality and for me, as I was feeling woefully uninitiated without the requisite incense. My companion and I each take three sticks and bow in Fung Ming Hall, which is being used temporarily as the main altar, before heading over to check out the adjacent kau chim area.

Many worshippers come to Wong Tai Sin specifically to kau chim. Literally meaning ‘to request a sign’, it is a tangible form of Q&A with the gods based on fortune-telling sticks. In a designated corner near the temporary main altar, worshippers are kneeling on the ground and rhythmically shaking cups of thin bamboo sticks that clatter noisily. The process is explained by a man at the service kiosk: “Think about a person’s name and address, and the subject matter, and then shake the cup until one stick falls out. Write down the stick’s number, put it back in the cup and do the same for your next question.” Everyone gets a pump of hand disinfectant first, and then grabs a stick-filled cup – each one holds 100 slivers of bamboo that are numbered. Paper and pencils are also provided for keeping track of questions and results. Then it’s down to business.

Meditatively shaking out a stick may take several attempts; if more than one falls out at the same time, you have to start again until just one slides out onto the ground. Once this goal has been accomplished, visitors can head to the attached building with two floors of bathroom-size stalls where fortune-tellers have set up shop. They will tell you what you need to know for $20 per question.

Another challenge: choosing a soothsayer. Each stall is a personalised mess of religious statuettes, face-reading charts, photographs and a lucky bamboo plant or two. Like many a learned psychic, my advice is to go with your gut. Once you’ve settled on a stool across from one of the sages, the first thing he or she needs to know is the number that fell out of the cup – each one corresponds to an ancient, esoteric fable printed on little pieces of paper. The soothsayers also ask for the birth year of the individual in question and the subject matter, which can range from a broad topic such as “marriage” or “health” to questions as specific as “will I get promoted this month?” In addition to answering all your pressing enquiries with the help of the fables, most of these fortune gurus also claim expertise in palm and face reading, astrology and feng shui.

Many Chinese, especially the older generation, take fortune-telling seriously. They make life decisions based on the words of a face reader or astrologist, ranging from the common custom of picking a marriage date to a more drastic act such as changing one’s name or even moving abroad. Tourists, on the other hand, might take their fortune with a grain of salt – but for the believer, there is no better souvenir.

For more information on Wong Tai Sin Temple, visit www. siksikyuen.org.hk

Hong Kong’s numerous temples range from elaborately landscaped sanctuaries to rudimentary paint-chipped rooms, but the basic elements of incense, altars and statues are constant. The more prominent temples also offer fortune-telling. This cultural and spiritual experience is free of charge and worth a visit. Some temples to consider:

1. Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple

This temple is known for its reliability in making wishes come true and in accurate predictions. 2 Chuk Yuen Village, Wong Tai Sin; take the MTR to Wong Tai Sin station, exit B2.

2. Man Mo Temple

A small structure with a lot of character, Man Mo Temple is dedicated to the gods of literature and war and located near the antiques shops of Hollywood Road. 124 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan; take the MTR to Sheung Wan station, exit A2, then walk up Ladder Street.

3. Chi Lin Nunnery

An elegant complex renovated in Tang dynasty architecture, this Buddhist nunnery houses religious relics and a picturesque garden. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill; take the MTR to Diamond Hill station, exit C2.

4. Yuen Yuen Institute

A bit out of the way, but the grounds of this monastery (dedicated to Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism) are immaculate and tranquil. Located in Sam Dip Tam; take the MTR to Tsuen Wan station, walk five minutes to Shiu Wo Street and take minibus 81.

5. Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

It takes a strenuous hike up more than 400 steps to reach, but at the top is a scenic setting with an impressive display of 12,800 miniature golden Buddha figurines. 220 Pai Tau Village, Sha Tin; take the MTR to Sha Tin station and follow the signs to the monastery.