From afar, one can see how Ping Shan’s small cluster of low buildings dips like a valley into the surrounding high-rises of Yuen Long and Tin Shui Wai. While this area in the north-western New Territories has seen residential blocks shoot up in rapid succession during the past two decades, the tiny town of Ping Shan has managed to hold on to its village vibe thanks to its own rich history and the help of the government, which established the Ping Shan Heritage Trail to help visitors and locals better appreciate the culture of an ancient settlement.

Ping Shan offers a look at the family structure of the olden days when clans settled together in one area, their descendents staying on even centuries later. One distinct characteristic of these communities is the thick brick walls to defend against pirates and wild animals. A number of these square-shaped walled villages still stand today, mainly in the New Territories, and they are indeed still inhabited by people who carry the same surname as their ancestors who built them.

The trail, which stretches about one kilometre from north to south, meanders through Sheung Cheung Wai walled village as well as beautiful ancestral halls and temples constructed by the Tang clan. These relics have been meticulously restored, and several have been declared as monuments. 12 points of interest are located amidst newer low-rise flats, simple eateries and paved roads, and panels as well as heritage attendants are available to explain the history of each building and the Tangs.

The powerful Tang clan is one of the Five Great Clans in the New Territories. They were the first to settle in the area about 800 years ago, and Ping Shan is just one of several villages that they founded. As can be seen from the size and detail of the Tangs’ buildings, they were extremely wealthy – the largest of the Five Great Clans, they controlled the agricultural land. The flourishing clan was able to educate its sons to help them secure the coveted positions of scholar-officials in the government.

In the early days of the settlement, the clan studied the feng shui of the place, just as many Chinese still do for their homes today. They constructed the Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda, which marks the beginning of the trail near the Tin Shui Wai MTR station. The pagoda was meant to improve the area’s aesthetic condition in hopes of warding off evil, preventing natural disasters and helping with clan members’ scholarly endeavours. Now appearing timeworn, the 600-year-old hexagonal pagoda is revered as Hong Kong’s only ancient pagoda.

Keep on the trail to reach Sheung Cheung Wai walled village, a small symmetrical maze of residential flats, narrow paths and open courtyards. In the centre lies a shrine, typical of the layout of such villages. Although the inside of the brick walls is private property, the villagers seem accustomed to visitors walking through discreetly, and there is a natural tendency to lower one’s voice and lighten one's footstep in these quiet surroundings. Some of the original houses still stand in derelict condition, while other buildings are obvious new additions. Within the walls, one chatty resident with the predictable surname Tang introduced a stone dragonhead in the shrine that is something of a mascot to the village. He urged me to visit the even better preserved walled villages in Fanling, which are part of the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail established by the government several years after Ping Shan.

The trail’s two small temples stand modestly, complementing the peaceful environment. Yeung Hau Temple is slightly off the track, enveloped by a field of tall grass. The simple temple has three rooms for worshipping the brave general Hau Wong, Kam Fa, patron saint of expectant mothers, and To Tei, the earth god. In front of the temple is a heavy table, standing outside and open to the elements, supporting an eclectic collection of ceramic statuettes of gods from Chinese mythology. It is a peculiar but charming sight, with the figurines oozing charisma and welcoming visitors to the humble place of worship. The trail’s other temple, Hung Shing Temple, has an airy, open courtyard in the centre where smoke from the enormous incense coils escapes.

The Tang Ancestral Hall and Yu Kiu Ancestral Hall stand side by side and are identical in layout. The Chinese believe in honouring one’s ancestors and this reverence shows in the scale and detail of the buildings – doubly so with the twin halls. Decorative details are mostly found on the roof, where carvings of lucky dragon-fish and unicorns perch. Not to be outdone, the two study halls and the guesthouse (called Ching Shu Hin, meaning “the house to relieve heat”), while smaller, are even more elaborately adorned with carved panels and wall paintings. The study halls were where young men prepared for the Imperial Civil Service Examinations, a serious matter that could lead to greater wealth and connections.

The trail’s grand finale, the Ping Shan Tang Clan Gallery, teaches visitors all about the clan’s ancient culture and customs in an historic colonial (and thankfully air-conditioned) building.

To reach the Ping Shan Heritage Trail, hop onto the MTR to Tin Shui Wai station, a 45-minute ride from Central. Most of the trail’s buildings are open from 9am-1pm and 2pm-5pm. The pagoda is closed on Tuesdays. The gallery is open from 10am-5pm, closed on Mondays. A map is available at www.amo.gov.hk and at several stops along the trail.