Another traditional dish is the signature stir-fried chicken which is served with edible crisp leaves that resemble cellophane. Chiu Chow food is known for its subtle flavours, and this dish is the perfect example. The savoury, peppery sauce on the chicken is very mild and the leaves add a delicately refreshing flavour.
Our favourite dish was the pan-fried sliced pomfret fish. The fried boneless fillets are tender, slightly crispy, and again just a little bit sweet and savoury. If ordering the fish for a large party, the dish is given the full presentation treatment, complete with the fish bone in a balletic pose.
The surroundings in this venue are more high-end that the chain’s other branches, and service is attentive. But most of all, the food is authentic and sure to satisfy any craving for high-quality Chiu Chow cuisine.
  
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Dynasty
Address: 3/F, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai
Tel: 2584 6971
Dynasty restaurant has just been awarded its first Michelin star and is deservedly milking the announcement with a new menu of signature items. The thirteen dishes created by no-nonsense chef Tam Sek Lun include all the old favourites as well as more innovative Cantonese cuisine.
Barbecued pork, a dish that practically epitomises Hong Kong food, is elevated into an art form at Dynasty. The cha siu, as it is called in Cantonese, arrives in its no-frills state lined up in three rows on a small plate. It tends to overwhelm expectations, each piece a 50/50 ratio between fat and lean meat, with a bit of sweetness from the honey glaze. The pork has been discriminatorily chosen: of the amount of pork purchased by the restaurant specifically for cha siu, only about one-third – the best part – is actually used. The dish is consistently good and keeps the regulars coming back for more. |
The other must-try item on the menu is the crab claws, which can be ordered steamed or deep-fried. Their main feature is definitely size, and again, the selection process is key because the chosen crabs have to weigh one kilo each at the bare minimum. The shell has already been removed so there’s no messy cracking. We preferred the fried ones, which are done in the spicy-salty style, with a thin crispy layer, strong garlic flavour and succulent meat.
Wonton soup is not exactly highbrow fare, so the poached vegetables with mini wonton is an unexpected dish on the “Michelin-recommended” menu. It is not overwrought with innovation but is rather like delicious comfort food. The wonton skins wrapped over shrimp are extra-thin and soft without falling apart. The spinach pairing is unusual but works perfectly in making this a healthy, tasty soup.
High ceilings, a rarity in Hong Kong, and tall windows give Dynasty an elegant yet relaxing atmosphere. The panoramic harbour view is an added bonus. But the best feature is still the chef's emphasis on home-style recipes, making this a fine venue to celebrate family – which is what Chinese New Year is all about.
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