We tried the heirloom tomato salad, which was perfect in its simplicity, containing little more than rocket, tomato slices and rich 25-year balsamic vinegar.
Next, we had to try the steaks, chops and seafood – one of each, in fact. The pan-seared red spot emperor fish has a good balance of flavours, and salty prosciutto and capers complement the mild fish well. The thick cut of the US pork chop is grilled perfectly (over flames flickering violently in the open kitchen), grill-marked on the outside yet juicy in the centre, and accompanied by sweet pieces of honey-baked pumpkin and delicious roasted Roma tomatoes. Finally, if you’re really hungry, the black angus Porterhouse steak at 700 grams will suffice. It is served with crispy, slightly spicy wedge fries.
For dessert, the ivoire chocolate fondant with raspberries is excellent and light enough for a midday meal. Chocolate ganache, parfait and mousse are presented with just a touch of tangy raspberry.
 
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Osteria
Address: Mezzanine Floor, Holiday Inn Golden Mile, 50 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: 2369 3111
On bustling Nathan Road is a gem of an Italian restaurant, serving authentic cuisine in a comfortable environment. “Osteria” means tavern, so while the premises is immaculate and smart, a certain cosiness is created by the black-and-white tiled floors, faux brick walls and Italian jazz playing over the speakers. The kitchen is in full view behind glass near the restaurant entrance, where chefs make all the pastas, as well as homemade gelato, ricotta cheese and some smoked items.
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The three-course set lunch, available on weekdays from noon to 2pm, is a steal at $188. The set menu changes weekly but the four mains on offer are consistently one each of pizza, pasta, meat and fish. The appetiser is either a soup or the antipasti buffet, which is an impressive spread of fresh vegetables and cold cuts. Filling up on the buffet would be ill-advised, as the mains come in large portions (they are the same serving size whether ordered as part of the set or from the a la carte menu).
We tried various signature items from the à la carte menu. The pizza with tomato, parma ham, mozzarella and rocket lettuce offers a winning combination of salty and tart tastes. The crust is perfectly chewy, slightly crispy, and soft enough to fold in half to eat the traditional way. The chef considers the pasta carbonara to be one of his favourite dishes and it is easy to see why. It arrives piping hot and al dente, with a rich sauce flecked with savoury pieces of pork cheek. The veal shank stewed in red wine is also highly recommended – a rather mild spinach spaetzle offsets the richness of the fall-off-the-bone tender veal.
Lastly, the spongy tiramisu is the dessert to try.
 
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