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THE VISITOR'S GUIDE TO HONG KONG 香港旅游指南
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W’s Entrecôte

Address: 6th Floor, Express by Holiday Inn, 33 Sharp Street East, Causeway Bay
Tel: 2506 0133

French cuisine is sometimes thought of as highfalutin, but casual French dining can also be found in the city without sacrificing quality and comfort. Conveniently located right across from Times Square mall, W’s Entrecôte is homely, decorated with red checked tablecloths and nostalgic French posters. The two large cow paintings highlight the restaurant’s speciality: ribeye steak (or entrecôte in French).

The food is uncomplicated and reflects the style of a casual steakhouse in France. The charbroiled ribeye is simply prepared with herb butter, retaining the natural flavours of the meat, and the all-you-can-eat fries are hot and crisp. Another main to try is the tender roasted veal chops, which are served with a mustard cream sauce.

The starters are also traditional but prepared to perfection. The French green salad with the signature vinaigrette and walnuts is simple and refreshing. For something more decadent (though much less healthy), opt for the pan-fried goose liver with port wine sauce – crispy on top, melt-in-your-mouth buttery, as foie gras should be.

Snails on mushrooms are done Alsatian-style, with lots of herbs and butter. There are no shells to contend with, just tasty and tender bites baked in a bed of puréed potato. If you are going to have soup, you can’t go wrong with the lobster bisque, loaded with lobster meat and a white dollop of cream.

Save room for dessert, because there is a long, tempting list of them on the relatively concise menu. The crème brûlée, one of the eatery’s several classic French desserts, is extremely creamy, and its large diameter means more of the crunchy caramelized top. The apple tart is very thin and light, while the napoleon is simple and traditional, with just layers of crunchy pastry and crème anglais (not preassembled, which prevents sogginess). The wines on offer are also notable, as they are handpicked by owner and wine buff Wilson Kwok.


 

Gaddi’s

Address: 1st Floor, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: 2315 3171

Everything about Gaddi’s says old-school luxury, from the private lift to the chandeliers, from the plush carpet in the Peninsula’s signature blue and gold colours to the wait staff’s synchronised service. It is what guests have come to expect at the oldest and grandest hotel in Hong Kong. With its original neoclassical architecture, plush surroundings, live violins and impeccable service, it is one of those classic places to pop the question – or find any other excuse to visit.

As far as the food is concerned, Gaddi’s offers French cuisine that is at once traditional and inventive. It doesn’t get any more French than its signature starter - terrine of marinated goose liver and Bresse chicken, served with toasted brioche. Also highly recommended is the delicate and decadent crab meat salad served with caviar.

One of the restaurant’s signature dishes is pigeon cooked two ways – the breast is slow-cooked and crusted in black truffle, while the leg is prepared confit-style, using duck fat to give it a crispy skin. Crunchy Jerusalem artichokes and wild mushrooms are found in the sauce, which has a strong cheese flavour. The contrast of textures and rich flavours make it one of the best French-style pigeon dishes in town. The steamed sea bass with roasted prawns is lighter and delectable. The fish is steamed with lobster mousse and served with black truffle foam and creamed leeks.

Desserts are presented impressively. The Valrhona chocolate prepared three ways (parfait, ganache with raspberry and a tart) will satisfy any sweet tooth. For something a bit more unusual, there’s the interesting trio of chestnut desserts in the form of mousse, ice cream and parfait.

As if dining at Gaddi’s isn’t treat enough, there is the option of an even more memorable experience. The “chef’s table” (which must be booked well in advance) offers diners the opportunity to tour the kitchen, watch the food being prepared while they dine and speak to the chef about each creation.


 

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Address: Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central
Tel: 2166 9000

There has been lots of buzz about Joël Robuchon’s restaurant in Hong Kong since its opening three years ago. He is a culinary legend, holding the most Michelin stars of any chef in the world. When the Michelin Guide for Hong Kong and Macau finally debuted in December 2008, the only three-star rated restaurant in Macau was his Robuchon á Galera, while L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Hong Kong garnered two stars – a testament to his already stellar reputation.

Robuchon’s “Atelier” brand of restaurants has an informal style, in which bar seating is arranged around an open show kitchen, similar to that of a sushi bar, and dishes are tapa-sized. The lunch set is a great option for the budget-conscious. One floor below is the more casual café, Le Salon de Thé, while La Boutique is the bakery which also provides the fresh breads to L’Atelier.

Robuchon’s cooking style is simple and subtle, using just a few ingredients per dish, as can be gleaned through his famous mashed potatoes with shaved black truffle. However, many of the ingredients are exotic, such as the vanilla beans from Tahiti used in the delicate signature lemon jelly (a complimentary amuse-bouche).

The sea urchin in lobster jelly, topped with cauliflower cream, is a popular starter and we can see why. It is fresh and creamy with a satisfying texture. The langoustine is another good example of the simple style, using just langoustine, a crispy phyllo skin from North Africa, and basil. The risotto with taleggio cheese and parma ham is a delicious new dish that is suited to the summer months.
The free-range quail with foie gras is one of the signature dishes served in all atelier locations. The quail breast is stuffed with foie gras, and along with the wing, is caramelised. Famous mashed potatoes come with this dish, as well as a herb salad. It is simply amazing. Another recommended main is the kagoshima beef medallions, which is a type of wagyu. It is served with vegetables and wasabi sauce, and the beef melts in your mouth.

Dessert is a no-brainer for chocolate lovers, who should go straight for “Le Chocolat Sensation” – Guanaja chocolate mousse, cocoa sorbet, Oreo powder and crispy chocolate cookies on the bottom.


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