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W’s EntrecôteAddress: 6th Floor, Express by Holiday Inn, 33 Sharp Street East, Causeway Bay
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The food is uncomplicated and reflects the style of a casual steakhouse in France. The charbroiled ribeye is simply prepared with herb butter, retaining the natural flavours of the meat, and the all-you-can-eat fries are hot and crisp. Another main to try is the tender roasted veal chops, which are served with a mustard cream sauce. The starters are also traditional but prepared to perfection. The French green salad with the signature vinaigrette and walnuts is simple and refreshing. For something more decadent (though much less healthy), opt for the pan-fried goose liver with port wine sauce – crispy on top, melt-in-your-mouth buttery, as foie gras should be. Snails on mushrooms are done Alsatian-style, with lots of herbs and butter. There are no shells to contend with, just tasty and tender bites baked in a bed of puréed potato. If you are going to have soup, you can’t go wrong with the lobster bisque, loaded with lobster meat and a white dollop of cream. Save room for dessert, because there is a long, tempting list of them on the relatively concise menu. The crème brûlée, one of the eatery’s several classic French desserts, is extremely creamy, and its large diameter means more of the crunchy caramelized top. The apple tart is very thin and light, while the napoleon is simple and traditional, with just layers of crunchy pastry and crème anglais (not preassembled, which prevents sogginess). The wines on offer are also notable, as they are handpicked by owner and wine buff Wilson Kwok.
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L’Atelier de Joël RobuchonAddress: Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central
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Robuchon’s “Atelier” brand of restaurants has an informal style, in which bar seating is arranged around an open show kitchen, similar to that of a sushi bar, and dishes are tapa-sized. The lunch set is a great option for the budget-conscious. One floor below is the more casual café, Le Salon de Thé, while La Boutique is the bakery which also provides the fresh breads to L’Atelier. Robuchon’s cooking style is simple and subtle, using just a few ingredients per dish, as can be gleaned through his famous mashed potatoes with shaved black truffle. However, many of the ingredients are exotic, such as the vanilla beans from Tahiti used in the delicate signature lemon jelly (a complimentary amuse-bouche). The sea urchin in lobster jelly, topped with cauliflower cream, is a popular starter and we can see why. It is fresh and creamy with a satisfying texture. The langoustine is another good example of the simple style, using just langoustine, a crispy phyllo skin from North Africa, and basil. The risotto with taleggio cheese and parma ham is a delicious new dish that is suited to the summer months. Dessert is a no-brainer for chocolate lovers, who should go straight for “Le Chocolat Sensation” – Guanaja chocolate mousse, cocoa sorbet, Oreo powder and crispy chocolate cookies on the bottom.
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