This melding of western and Asian cuisines is typical of cha chaan teng (Hong Kong-style cafe), as are the menus wedged under glass on the tables and the booth-style seating. With its reliable fare, comfy diner-style interiors, casual service and reasonable prices, the place is irresistible to locals, who can be found here at all times of the day devouring crispy buns alongside the famous fish balls with rice noodles, all washed down with smooth milk tea or crushed ice fruit concoctions. For visitors, dining at the restaurant provides a taste of Hong Kong with consistent quality, reasonable cleanliness and menus that include English and Japanese – a few things that are lacking at some cha chaan teng.
There’s really no excuse not to pay a visit to this Hong Kong institution, with four of Tsui Wah’s 14 branches across the city (including ones in Causeway Bay, Central and Jordan) open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Central’s branch on Wellington Street occupies three stories and becomes a madhouse during lunch and evening hours. The crowds are part of the Tsui Wah experience, but to avoid waiting or sharing a table with strangers, try visiting on weekday mornings or late at night – although one Tsui Wah waiter notes the tides of customers are unpredictable. “Any time could be busy, any time could be quiet. It could be a full house at 4am. We never know,” he says.
Be sure to check out the souvenir T-shirts that read “I ♥ Tsui Wah” or proclamations of curry devotion sported by workmen and delivery drivers all across town. Your friends back home probably won’t understand, but that’s all right. You’ll know it’s the real Hong Kong.
  
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Tasty Congee & Noodle Wantun Shop
Address: 21 King Kwong Street, Happy Valley
Tel: 2838 3922
In Hong Kong, one never needs to walk far to find noodles. Whether it is in soup or stir-fried, laden with savoury sauces or topped with meats and vegetables, noodles are likely just around the corner and can probably be had for not much money at all. There aren’t many surprises at noodle shops - most dishes on offer consist of standard fare designed to be hastily consumed as a quick lunch or dinner. But Tasty Congee & Noodle Wantun Shop is not quite your normal noodle joint. Firstly, it doesn’t look the part. The original branch in Happy Valley, while small, packs a punch of nostalgic elegance with its heavy wooden furniture that gives it the look of an old China teahouse. The branch in IFC mall is more spacious and the surroundings are almost opulent, with a gleaming gong hanging at the entrance, enormous vases suspended from the ceiling and one wall of faux stained-glass. |
The food is the other element that makes the restaurant stand out. The menu covers all the bases of standard noodle-shop fare but in a slightly upmarket style. Wonton noodles is the star here, each bowl possessing those qualities that picky devotees look for: thin and slippery skins, fresh meat fillings, noodles with bite, tasty soup. Congee (rice porridge) is also one of their specialities, ranging from a decadent abalone and chicken version to the more common “sampan” congee with a variety of seafood ingredients. Another signature dish, the steamed chicken, does not disappoint with its soft texture, served simply with delicious ginger and onion sauce. A dim sum selection is also available to complete a comprehensive Hong Kong meal.
What started as a noodle shop specialising in wonton – the humblest of Cantonese food – is now a well-known chain. When the Michelin Guide of Hong Kong and Macau was launched two years ago, all three branches at the time (there are now four) were recognised with Bibs Gourmands, which denotes high-quality dining without the high price tags (specifically, a three-course meal that can be had for under $300). What more can you ask for?
 
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