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Fish BarAddress: 7th Floor, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty
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True to its name, Fish Bar is dedicated to seafood, especially fish. Its one-page menu only has a small section helpfully labelled as “Not Seafood”. For starters, oysters are a favourite here. The homemade crab and lobster cakes are meaty and come with the restaurant’s popular homemade tartar sauce. Also try the buckets of seafood with large steamed shrimp, mussels and clams served with garlic bread – great for dipping into the white wine sauce. The “simply fresh fish” mains are just that: simple and fresh. They are mix-and-match fare in which the customer first picks from among a list of available fish. On the day we visited, the list consisted of sole, snapper, salmon, pompret, rainbow trout, yellow fin tuna and garoupa. The three cooking styles to choose from are char-grilled, beer-battered and pan-fried. Finally, the potato side comes fried, baked or mashed. One of the most popular fish selections is beer-battered with fries, aka fish and chips. The staff can also helpfully suggest which combos work best. Notably, all of the fish are from sustainable sources. This can mean that they are line-caught, farmed, or fished in the proper season, as opposed to fishing in massive quantities in ways that damage the marine ecosystem. Knowing this fact might improve your enjoyment of the meal, as could the simple preparation techniques that allow the fish’s freshness and flavours to shine through. No fancy sauces except tartar in a jar. A tray of four desserts, which changes monthly, is presented for your selection – a charmingly formal gesture for such a casual setting.
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Ocean GrillAddress: 49 Elgin Street, Central
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The hamachi sashimi starter with mint and lemon oils has a creative alcoholic twist: next to the raw slices is a hunk of ice that gradually melts a mojito concoction to lightly coat the fish. The octopus starter is inspired by Portuguese cuisine, incorporating chickpeas, and the octopus meat has a surprisingly pork-like texture from having been boiled, braised, char-grilled, and then fried. Belying the chef’s young age, the fish are prepared with expertise but without pretension. Haddock emphasises the importance of picking the right section of fish for the right job, so while the delicious salmon spread that comes with the bread uses the salmon’s upper fillet, the swordfish with shellfish in port sauce (one of the most popular main courses) calls for a generous cut of the fish’s belly. The sauce also succeeds in perfectly complementing the tender cut without overpowering it. But he is also aiming for simplicity, best exemplified by the whole barramundi prepared according to a simple Portuguese recipe of vinegar, garlic and rosemary. If you like sweet desserts, you’ll love the espresso affogato cake with vanilla ice cream and caramel. It is dense, sticky and so satisfying. The set lunch menu is affordable at $98 for two courses and $118 for three.
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