Yun Fu

Address: Basement, Yu Yuet Lai Building
43-55 Wyndham Street, Central
Tel: 2116 8855

Yun Fu’s décor and ambience make an immediate impression. Descending the stairs into the basement, the first word that comes to mind is “grotto”. Dark, underground and barely lit by red lanterns, the restaurant is suggestively sexy. The sheer curtains draped around the lounge’s bed sofas, carved wooden panel dividers, a subtle smoke machine in the bar area – it’s impossible not to get caught up in the moody Chinese pleasure palace vibe.

The chic bar and lounge, simply called Yun Bar, is a prominent part of the venue. A kung fu film is projected onto one wall, which somehow comes across as so over-the-top it’s cool. The signature cocktails use Chinese ingredients such as plum wine and sugar cane. They tend to be sweet and offbeat, such as the apple-flavoured Firecracker which, with the use of fresh grated red chilli peppers, tastes like a spicy appletini.

The food is contemporary, inspired by cuisine from the northern and western regions of China with a strong Tibetan influence. Among its bar snacks is the crispy baby cod fish. The dish of tiny, spicy, crunchy white fish goes well with alcohol, and make a delicious alternative to bar nuts. For something less intense, try the chicken and mushroom roll, a light dish with crispy skin and a tasty filling.

The restaurant has recently rolled out a new menu that features the culinary traditions of Sichuan. Octopus with lemongrass and Sichuan pepper is a popular cold dish that is enhanced by the tanginess and slight sweetness of its bed of onions. The wok-tossed mussels and clams lie atop shiny red chillies in true Sichuan fashion – the dish is as spicy as it looks. Crispy prawn toast and wok-fried spicy mandarin fish is a dish of contrasts – crispy and soft, East meets West – a perfect example of Yun Fu’s contemporary style of Chinese cuisine.

Golden Valley Address: 1st Floor, The Emperor Hotel 1 Wang Tak Street, Happy Valley Tel: 2961 3330 Golden Valley is hidden within the Emperor Hotel, tucked away on Happy Valley’s quiet and winding roads. More than anything, the restaurant takes pride in the authenticity of its Sichuan cuisine. Ingredients are imported from that region, as is one of their chefs. While he admits to lowering the level of spiciness to accommodate Hong Kong taste buds, his recipes and methods are traditional. Don’t even mention the word “fusion” – it might as well be a profanity here.

Gaylord

Address: 1st Floor, Ashley Centre
23-25 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: 2376 1001

Gaylord is practically an institution on Hong Kong’s Indian food scene. It’s been around since 1972 and isn’t showing any of its age. A warm and inviting venue, it is a favourite of the Indian community, but the party really gets started at night when live bands put on a show. These musicians are recruited from India and stay for months at a time, so the entertainment line-up changes regularly.

Indian cuisine is known for its use of spices and its spiciness, but we started with a few non-spicy appetisers, all the better to build anticipation to the curries. The sweet and savoury chowpatty chaat, a dish of chickpeas, potatoes and crispy fried dough dressed with a yogurt sauce, is a popular choice. Items from the tandoor oven are also mild but tasty, and the tandoori jumbo prawns are particularly satisfying in size (huge) and texture (succulent).

A comprehensive selection of curries, ranging from mild to spicy, allows customers to try dishes from various regions, prepared with traditional methods. Lamb vindaloo is one Indian dish that has gained popularity throughout the world, and the Gaylord version does not disappoint with its characteristic extreme spiciness. Though intimidatingly red in colour, the chicken madras isn’t nearly as spicy but a bit sweet from the tamarind. It goes well with raita, a yogurt sauce that provides a much appreciated cooling effect. The paneer mirch masala – uniquely Indian cubed cheese – is fragrant with capsicum and a delicious alternative for vegetarians.

Finish off with something very sweet. The cold malai kulfi dessert, made with frozen milk, pistachio and syrup, fits the bill. Or wash down all those spices with a cup of aromatic and milky masala tea. This month, the country observes the Diwali Festival, one of India's most important holidays. To celebrate, Gaylord has created gorgeous boxes of traditional sweets that are available for sale.