In the 'Land Between', the Hakka people have preserved a traditional way of life.

More than 250 years before the arrival of the British, before the skyscrapers and certainly before Victoria Harbour became one of the busiest in the world, the Hakkas, a migratory ethnic group of Han Chinese, settled in small clusters across the New Territories in what became known as the 'land between' the territory of Hong Kong and China.

No one knew exactly where these mysterious settlers came from. The closely-knit groups refused to say who their ancestors were, as many were fleeing from a Chinese law that said they could be sentenced to death because someone in their extended family had committed treason. Without a family name, they were dubbed 'Hakkas', adapted from a derogatory term meaning 'guest families'.

Even though the Hakkas were one of the first inhabitants of the territory, they were marginalised from the start. They were seen as cult members, rebels and initiators of territorial disputes. They had their own language, architecture and cuisine, and they disregarded many of the common practices of the day, such as foot binding. They also settled on some of the least desirable lands, and were a communal society that stuck closely to the core family unit in a clan-like manner.

From the beginning, the Hakkas were vehemently protective of their cultural identity, which has withstood the tests of time. There are now Hakka populations all over the world, including the sizeable community here in Hong Kong. Today, the preservation of Hakka culture is respected. You can find Hakka enclaves and villages in the New Territories where pipe-smoking Hakka women dressed in traditional black attire with strung bamboo hats will pose for pictures for a small fee from friendly tourists.

Experiencing Hakka Culture

Law Uk Hakka House

Last remaining village house in Chai Wan, built 200 years ago by the Law family who made a modest living growing rice. Open 10am-1pm and 2pm-6pm except Thursdays, and 1pm-6pm on Sundays and public holidays. 14 Kut Shing Street, Chai Wan. MTR: Chai Wan

The Land Between Tour

A coach tour highlights the New Territories including Fanling Walled Village, a traditional Chinese village with walls and ancestral hall. Price: $420 adult, $370 child. Time: about six and a half hours, departing daily. Tel: 2207 7235

Sam Tung Uk Museum

Restored walled village with 12 of the original houses and authentic agricultural implements preserved. Open 9am-5pm except Tuesdays and public holidays. Free admission. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan. Tel: 2411 2001. MTR: Tseun Wan, exit E

Hakka Yé Yé

Restaurant serving ethnic Hakka fare, which features preserved foods and seasonal vegetables. 2/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central. Tel: 2537 7060. MTR: Central

Sheung Yiu Folk Museum

Village inside Sai Kung Country Park built during the late 19th century by the Wong family who produced products from their limekiln. Open 9am-4pm, Wed to Sun. Free admission. Tel: 2792 6365. MTR: Choi Hung, then take minibus number 1A to Sai Kung. From the town, take bus 94 and alight at Pak Tam Chung