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THE VISITOR'S GUIDE TO HONG KONG 香港旅游指南
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Mahjong

More than just a game

Tucked into parlours and outdoor alleys, groups of men and women gather around tables playing a game of Mahjong, the sounds of their voices muffled by the clicks of marked tiles. Mahjong is an ancient Chinese game of skill, chance and memory that has blossomed into more than just a competition; instead, it is a common social activity and tradition that brings generations together on the streets of the city.

Mahjong is deeply embedded in Chinese culture. Despite a myth linking the origins of the game to Confucius, Mahjong began in the mid-19th century as an adaptation of a Chinese card game popular during the Ming Dynasty. In 1949, the game was banned in mainland China until the Cultural Revolution, but in Hong Kong it remained popular throughout the years, making it a favourite pastime for many Cantonese. Even today, the Hong Kong variation of Mahjong is the most prevalent.

Basically, Mahjong involves four players who seek to build sets of varying tiles in order to gain the highest points. Each Mahjong set contains between 136 and 144 tiles in three broad categories: suits, honour and flowers. Suits include bamboo, character and dot tiles. Honour tiles have directional wind tiles and cardinal dragon designs, while the third category, flowers, is optional and consists of flower and seasonal decorations. Points (often denoted in monetary value, which leads to gambling) are awarded for building sets by using fast calculations, concentration and reasoning.

Mahjong is everywhere in Hong Kong. Even though the older generations have been playing for ages, the young generations also play, keeping the custom alive. While most people have their own Mahjong sets at home, sets are also provided at wedding banquets and restaurants to pass the time. There are even Mahjong schools and parlours, and it seems everyone owns a collapsible Mahjong table.

For the tourist, the easiest way to catch a glimpse of this cultural game in action is by exploring the city and listening for the sounds of laughter and the clack of the tiles. To bring home a bit of the action, Mahjong sets are for sale at street markets and shops along Hollywood Road, such as G.O.D. (48 Hollywood Road, Central).

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